Ungase wazi kancane nge-kojic acid, kodwa i-kojic acid inamanye amalungu omndeni, njenge-kojic dipalmitate. I-Kojic acid dipalmitate iyi-ejenti emhlophe ye-kojic acid ethandwa kakhulu emakethe njengamanje. Ngaphambi kokuthi sazi i-kojic acid dipalmitate, ake siqale sifunde mayelana nomanduleli wayo – “i-kojic acid”.
I-Kojic Acidikhiqizwa ngokuvutshelwa kanye nokuhlanzwa kwe-glucose noma i-sucrose ngaphansi kwesenzo se-kojise. Indlela yayo yokwenza mhlophe iwukuvimbela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase, ukuvimbela umsebenzi we-N-hydroxyindole acid (DHICA) oxidase, futhi uvimbele i-polymerization ye-dihydroxyindole (DHI). Kuyi-ejenti eyodwa emhlophe engavamile engavimbela ama-enzyme amaningi ngesikhathi esisodwa.
Kodwa i-kojic acid inokukhanya, ukushisa kanye nokungaqini kwe-ion yensimbi, futhi akulula ukumuncwa isikhumba, ngakho kwavela okuphuma kokuphuma kwe-kojic acid. Abacwaningi baye basungula izinto eziningi eziphuma ku-kojic acid ukuze bathuthukise ukusebenza kwe-kojic acid. Okuphuma kokuphuma kwe-Kojic acid akugcini nje ngokuba nendlela yokwenza mhlophe njenge-kojic acid, kodwa futhi kunokusebenza okungcono kune-kojic acid.
Ngemuva kwe-esterification nge-kojic acid, i-monoester ye-kojic acid ingakhiwa, futhi i-diester nayo ingakhiwa. Njengamanje, i-ejenti emhlophe ye-kojic acid edume kakhulu emakethe i-kojic acid dipalmitate (KAD), ephuma e-diesterified ye-kojic acid. Ucwaningo lubonisa ukuthi umphumela wokuba mhlophe we-KAD ohlanganiswe nokuphuma kokuphuma kwe-glucosamine uzokhula kakhulu.
Ukusebenza kokunakekelwa kwesikhumba kwe-kojic dipalmitate
I-1) Ukuba mhlophe: I-Kojic acid i-dipalmitate iphumelela kakhulu kune-kojic acid ekuvimbeleni umsebenzi we-tyrosinase esikhumbeni, ngaleyo ndlela ivimbele ukwakheka kwe-melanin, enomthelela omuhle esikhumbeni esimhlophe kanye ne-sunscreen.
2) Ukususwa kwama-Freckle: I-Kojic acid dipalmitate ingathuthukisa umbala wesikhumba, futhi ingalwa namabala obudala, ama-stretch marks, ama-freckles kanye ne-pigmentation evamile.
I-Dipalmitate cosmetic compounding guide
Kojic acid dipalmitateKunzima ukungeza kufomula futhi kulula ukwenza imvula eyikristalu. Ukuze uxazulule le nkinga, kunconywa ukuthi wengeze i-isopropyl palmitate noma isopropyl myristate esigabeni sikawoyela esiqukethe i-kojic dipalmitate, ukushisa isigaba sikawoyela sibe ngu-80 ℃, ubambe imizuzu emi-5 kuze kube yilapho i-kojic dipalmitate ichitheka ngokuphelele, bese wengeza isigaba sikawoyela isigaba samanzi, bese u-emulsify cishe imizuzu eyi-10. Ngokuvamile, inani le-pH lomkhiqizo wokugcina otholiwe licishe libe ngu-5.0-8.0.
Umthamo onconyiwe we-kojic dipalmitate ezimonyoni ngu-1-5%; Engeza u-3-5% emikhiqizweni emhlophe.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Oct-21-2022